Last time I caught you up on my dressmaking adventures at Sew Me Something, my Simplicity New Look 6871 top was almost complete. First on the task list for Week Three was to finish that off and learn how to make bias binding. If you’d like to catch up on my previous dressmaking blog posts, go and have a gander at Week One and Week Two.
Bias binding is something I’ve heard a lot about but (until now) has been a complete mystery to me. I knew that fabric on the ‘bias’ meant cutting on the diagonal to give the fabric a bit more stretch, give and flexibility but didn’t really understand how you’d do that and couldn’t get my head around how you’d then attach it to a garment…
The first step was to find the grain line on our fabric and find a 45 degree angle against it by folding a corner over. I then marked and cut strips measuring 5cm wide. My leftover fabric wasn’t wide enough to make one strip long enough to do one armhole, so I had to cut several smaller pieces and sew them together – which isn’t as simple as it sounds to ensure the bias line is kept intact. Rather than just sewing the ends together, I had to criss-cross the fabric over and sew a diagonal line and press it all out flat. I’m glad I had someone on hand to show me how as I’d have never figured that out on my own!
It’s been almost two weeks since I attached the bias binding to the arm holes… and I don’t know if it’s baby-brain or what… but I absolutely cannot remember how I did it! I have this progress photo which shows that I pinned the right sides together of the garment arm hole and the bias binding strip and I can see from my finished top that I finished it all off with some top stitching… but I’m going to have to go back and do some research to figure out the intermediate steps! Using my trusty Learn to Sew with Lauren book to help me figure it out, I think it just involved a lot of pressing and folding to cover the initial row of stitching before the top stitching finished it all off.
A quick whizz around the contrast band to attach it to the main top and a bit of overlocking to finish off the seams, and the top was complete! Even though I’d made it with the intention of wearing it once baby bump has gone, I couldn’t resist trying it on out of curiosity – and it looked a bit bizarre but I could just about squeeze myself into it. That bodes well! If I can fit into it at 28 weeks pregnant, I should be able to fit into it post-pregnancy.
No rest for the wicked though, so after giving myself a quick pat on the back, I started work on my skirt: Simplicity’s New Look 6106. But you’ll have to wait until my next Dressmaking Update to see how that goes…!